Florida Panhandle – Topsail Hill Reserve Park

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Topsail Hill Preserve State Park is a large / well run / organized state park with over 40 volunteers on site at a given time (more on volunteers later).  The park is set up with RV sites, tent sites and cabins.  A shuttle runs from the camping areas to the beach area on a paved road.  Hikers and cyclists also use the road.  The park has a number of hiking / cycling trails.

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Pic of shuttle stop near beach and also bicycle parking in same area:

 

I reserved a tent site as all the RV sites were already taken at the time of my reservation.  This is a popular park and making reservations 6 months or more in advance is necessary.  I had friends (Jim and Rebecca) who were volunteering at the park during my visit.  As such, on my arrival I was greeted with a surprise.

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It was great spending time with Jim and Rebecca.   They introduced me to other volunteers at nightly campfires, transported me to various music venues and cooked / joined me for meals.   Pic of them.

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One venue was the Music & Coffee location.  In the evening, the 30A Songwriters Radio Station broadcasted live music.  Some nights it was an open mike and other nights invited acts.

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We spent two nights at this venue.  One night we saw two brothers from Santa Fe play, called the Prickly Pears.  Really good talent.  The second night Jim and Rebecca joined the open mike and did 3 songs, with Rebecca on guitar and vocals and Jim on harmonica.  They sounded awesome.

The other venue was Stinky’s Bait Shop:

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We saw TKO’ed with Mark.  They are a local band and are very good.

The majority of my time was spent at the beach or hiking / cycling the trails.

My tent site worked well, until the 7th day.  I received a call from a Ranger.   Since I was at a tent site, I needed to have a tent and also needed to sleep in the tent.  Hmm, well what to do.  Luckily, Jim had found an abandoned tent earlier in the month stuffed in the bushes.   With a little ingenuity and duct tape, I was able to have a standing tent.  My camping neighbors had fun watching me piece the tent together.  A ranger stopped by while I was putting on the finishing touches and gave me a thumbs up.  Problem solved.

A picture of my “tent” and my site.  The pic with the van is “pre-tent”. The tent sites do have electric which allowed me to charge various items during my 10 days.

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I mentioned earlier in the post about park volunteers.  By volunteering, a person can camp for free in exchange for a certain number of hours per week (usually in the 14 to 20 hour range).  Requirements are different at each park.  In some cases, only one person needs to work (if a couple).  Other locations require both to work.  Volunteers are assigned to all types of work (usually one type of assignment per stay).  I guess you can include campground hosts under the volunteer umbrella.  Depending on the park, there is backlog (years sometimes) for a spot.  Most will require you to stay as a volunteer for at least a month or more.

From the park, you can cycle on a paved pathway along highway 30-A for 20 or more miles.  A great ride.  My favorite stop was at Red Fish Taco’s. Yummy!

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Blue Tarps – Hurricane Michael Aftermath

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In October of 2018, Hurricane Michael marched through the Florida Panhandle, with winds greater than 150 mph.  I was amazed to see the amount of devastation that still exists six months later.  In many areas, one would think the hurricane happened less than a week ago.  My heart goes out to all those impacted.  So sad!

The damage is visible soon after crossing the state line from Alabama into Florida.  At first, the main damage is from fallen trees (many times splitting a house in half).  In most cases, the trees still sit where they fell.  I am not sure where the occupants now reside.

This part of Florida has “tree farms” and the trees all snapped off at the same height.  You can track the path of of the storm through the area given the direction in which the snapped trees point.

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As one moves closer to the coast, the damage comes not only from fallen trees but directly from the wind itself.  Blue tarps covering roofs are still visible in very direction. Makeshift signs are tacked up every where for mold removal, tree service, roof repair, demolition, and so forth.  Mexico Beach and then areas outward took the worst hit.  Piles of debris were still stacked near the roads.  Many roads are under repair and down to one lane with guided passage.

The signs that really catch your attention while driving through the area are the big billboard signs.  They are rented out by lawyers advertising that they will get you a just settlement from your insurance company.  More on this later.

I spent the night in Apalachicola. FL.  Hurricane damage in Apalachicola was primarily limited to a six foot storm surge that moved up the Apalachicola river (which the town sits next to).

I really like the feel of this town.  It is now know for its oysters.  It has a few brewery’s, music venue (open 5 nights a week), restaurants, artists, and so forth.

At one time, the town was the second busiest port on the gulf coast.  As the Apalachicola river flows deep into Georgia and then through Alabama and Florida, cotton crops were sent downriver for shipment out of Apalachicola’s port.  This brought dollars into the city in the 1800’s and the commercial and residential buildings still reflect this.

You can park your camper on main street for a night without any problems.  After parking, I walked around town and ending up talking with a shop owner for almost 2 hours about various subjects.  It was near closing time, I mentioned I was hungry and we then had dinner together.

What an interesting evening of conversation.  We covered the impact of the recent hurricane, small business survival in general, town politics, personal backgrounds and much more.

The take on insurance was agree on a “low-ball” number and avoid the ongoing hassle or get a lawyer and go for the “long run” and hope of a better payout.  An individual working directly with the insurance company was not going to get a fair settlement.

Small shop survival in Apalachicola is hard given small profit margins, internet shopping, economic ups and downs, and natural disasters.

Town politics is probably the same as most places, growth vs. no change.

Impact of the hurricane was primarily on businesses in low lying areas near the river.  Many of the business had or were liquidating.  A few were moving to higher ground.

Some pics from Apalachicola:

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Alabama

 

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After leaving Nashville, two nights were available for my drive to a Florida beach destination.  My route took me into Alabama where I spent a night in the city of Troy.  I stayed at the local Walmart.  “Walmart Camping” always comes in handy when making a long drive between destinations.  It is an Oasis on the concert desert.  You can find fuel, water, nourishment, and even restrooms all at one spot.

While putting big mile days is not my favorite style of travel, sometimes it is necessary given priorities and timing.  Under these circumstances, catching any local flavor is lost and it is only fuel up and restroom breaks.  However, on my way into Troy, I saw a sign that caught my attention.  Versus breaking camp and immediately hitting the road, I spent the morning at Troy State University.

The University has 200 full scale replicas of soldiers of the Terracotta Army found during the excavation of the burial site of China’s first emperor (Qin Shi Huang).  The burial site held more than 8,000 Terracotta soldiers, 130 Terracotta chariots with 520 horses.   Pretty cool display.  The university itself is impressive with red brick buildings and a well landscaped campus, all sitting in a scenic area.   The Terracotta display is located behind the University  International Art Center.

 

 

 

 

 

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Now I had the bug to check more of Alabama before crossing into Florida.  Dothan, AL was my next stop for a cup of coffee and a look at the various murals scattered across the downtown area.  Like many cities across America, Dothan spread to the suburbs and the downtown went into decline.  However, the downtown area is starting to see a resurgence.

Not far outside of is the home of the National Peanut Festival, which takes place in November of each year.  It would be fun to join sometime.

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Now Florida bound.

Nashville

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A visit to Nashville was always on my wish list.  Luckly, I was able to spend 5 nights there with a bonus of my friend Roger joining me.  Roger drove his new camper from South Carolina and we stayed at the North KOA (near the Grand Old Opry area).  Nice place, would recommend.  Clean, great service and has excellent laundry facilities.

It was awesome spending time with a good buddy.  I mentioned to Roger that the time went quick and that I would have a hard time relating back to all the things we did.  His reply was “we drank a lot of beer and heard a lot of good music”.  And if you sprinkled that with some awesome BBQ, it provides a good summary,

Rogers Rig:

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Roger (late at night) in front of Tootsies.

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We had advanced tickets for the Osborne Brothers at the Ryman Auditorium and also Steve Earle at the City Winery.  Our only other focused goal was to visit the Country Music Hall of Fame.  The remainder of our time was spent walking / exploring the Broadway area as well as a day in East Nashville.

Let me highlight our main events first:

1) Country Music Hall of Fame –

 

I recommend a visit if you have a chance.  The facility has on-going exhibits as well as special exhibits.  I felt lucky with the special exhibits available at the time of our visit.  One was for EmmyLou Harris and the other was Outlaw Country.  I have always liked EmmyLou’s voice and songs.  Having spent a lot of time in Texas lately, the Outlaw country exhibit was perfect.

Some pics:

 

 

 

The real story on one of the above pictures:

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Some other pics from the hall of fame plus one from Tootsies:

 

Ryman Auditorium:   The Brothers Osborne concert was pretty special.  I would put it in my top 8 of all time.  Wild Feather opened for Brothers Osborne and did a great job.  Everyone stood from the first song to the last.  A really good mix of blues, country and rock.  Enjoyed!  The Ryman has an interesting history (starting as a church and now a music venue).  Great acoustics.  The Grand Old Opry played here until the early 70’s and then moved to a money making complex on the outside of town.   If you get a chance, see a show here!

 

Pics from before and during the show.

 

– Steve Earle, with opener Sarah McLachlin

The City Winery is a great place to see a show.  It is a small venue with diner theater type setting.  The prices for food and drink are on the upscale side but good.  I recommend the seating towards the front or in the balcony in the back.

 

While we made a stop at many a bar in the Broadway area, we seemed to gravitate to Tootsies.  Liked the vibe.  Roger found out that some family was also in town and they joined us for a few beers at Tootsies.

 

BBQ at Martins BBQ Joint hit the spot.  We also enjoyed the Headquarters Beercade, where you could play free pinball / video games in a relaxed atmosphere.

 

Some other pics from our visit:

 

East Nashville is an older, laid back transition area.  The housing has already made a major transition and the businesses are following.

 

Logistics:

The KOA does offer shuttle service (at a cost) into downtown but we chose to Uber.  This gave more flexibility and with two people about the same cost as the shuttle.  Uber prices varied by the time of day and also by the day of the week.  In general, the cost was between $10 to $15 (when split per person) for one way.  This was wise for two reasons, 1) really hard to find parking downtown (and a high cost) and 2) you can enjoy your beverages of choice without having to make a drive.

I would like to come back and include some of the parks and no-music activities.  So much to do in such a little time.